Amiens: Flea markets, macarons and floating gardens

Renowned for its huge brocante markets lining the streets, take the time to fall for this northern French town’s traditional charms

The capital of the Picardy region, Amiens has been dubbed the ‘Venice of the north’ for it’s winding waterways created during medieval times, which are complemented by a townscape of pleasing architecture. Appealing 19th-century red-brick apartment blocks line many streets, complemented by centuries-older woody facades in enclaves like St Leu. Lovely details adorn buildings throughout the town, alongside surprises like the cluster of eye-catching art deco buildings on Rue Ernest Cauvin.

The star architecture turn, though, is Europe’s largest Gothic cathedral – the UNESCO-listed Cathedrale Notre-Dame d’Amiens – which has provided a ravishing landmark across the city since the 13th century. Its stunning facade is decorated with thousands of statues and carvings, from standard-issue saintly dudes to people going about ancient occupations like weaving, as well as stony depictions of ‘sins and virtues’. Inside, be properly awestruck by a nave twice the size of the piddling Notre-Dame in Paris.

The Museum of Picardy was the first purpose-built museum in France. Set inside a palatial edifice built over a decade in the mid-19th century, its collections range from 5,000-year-old Egyptian artefacts to modern art, including work by Francis Bacon and Picasso. There’s inventive curation too, with 21st-century pieces displayed alongside ancient works to strike up intriguing aesthetic discourses across the millennia.

For vintage hunters, twice a year Amiens hosts two of the largest antique flea markets in France. Known as the Rederie, there is a spring outing in April and then a wonderful autumn follow-up in October – expect up to 2,000 sellers, with stalls filling dozens of the town-centre streets.

To attract design-savvy visitors year-round, Amiens has also instigated two new monthly outdoor markets. Running from June to September, the Designer Market showcases work by over 50 local modern designers on Place Dufau near the cathedral, while on the third Saturday of each month from June to October, Les Puces Amienoises brings together around 20 leading antiques traders from around the region to sell everything from deco desirables to old textiles on Place Friant.

Must-see

• Maison Jules Verne The famed 19th-century author and adventurer Jules Verne fled Paris to settle in Amiens, where he wrote renowned novels such as Around the World in 80 Days and 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea. His elegant house at 2 rue Charles-Dubois is now filled with memories of his life and travels, and the 34 novels he wrote here.
• The Hortillonnages Carved from marshland in medieval times, this wondrous urban archipelago of around 1,000 miniature islands makes for a wonderful exploration by boat – though you can access certain sections on foot. Nose along 40 miles of slender channels known as rieux, either on a traditional barque à cornet (a flat-bottomed vessel with one raised pointed end) steered by a local guide or hire your own electric boat.

Where to shop for vintage

• Diabolo Vintage 2 rue Dusevel – Clothing from the 1960s and 70s
• L’imprimerie 10 rue Dusevel – Contemporary painting, vintage posters and old art books
• La Fleur de Lys 4 rue de Beauvais – Art deco lighting and Lalique perfume containers
• Le Diable Bouilli 48 rue du Hocquet – Silverware, glassware and dishes
• Le Grenier 9 rue des Cordeliers – Maps, lighting, ceramics and furniture from the 20th century

Where to stay and eat

• Les Orfèvres Set near the 12th-century belfry, this gourmet beacon majors on local produce both from the Hortillonnages and the wider Picardy region, from asparagus to sheep’s cheese. If you’re here in autumn, expect gorgeous game dishes and upscale ways with pies. Well-priced set menus too.
• Hotel Marotte Fashioned from an elegant 18th-century house, this chic bolthole retains a sense of intimacy with upscale artfully styled rooms, including ‘sauna suites’ with Roman-style baths carved into rock, complementing a superbly equipped spa. The excellent La Galerie des Recettes restaurant is open to guests and visitors alike.
• Hotel Ibis Styles Opened in 2019, this modern-design hotel combines a sense of contemporary-style touches ­– graffiti decor in the foyer – with a laid-back vibe and a great central location tucked down a hideaway lane across from the train station. Top floor rooms also offer some great city views towards the cathedral.

Tips for the first-time visitor

• On the third Sunday every month, the market gardeners of the Hortillonnages don traditional costume to bring their produce by water on old-fashioned barques à cornet for a quayside market on Place Parmentier.
• Visit Jean Trogneux at 23 rue André to sample Amiens’ renowned macarons, from this sixth-generation baker and chocolatier.
• For an evening out with a difference, pay a visit to the Hippodrome race track a short trot outside the town centre, for horse-drawn chariot races with a nod back to the days of Roman Empire.
• Check what’s on at the Marionette Theatre, tucked into an alley off rue Vanmarcke, to see Picardy puppetry in action.

WORDS: NORMAN MILLER